9 Best Mechanical Keyboards (2024), Tested and Reviewed
Other Good Keyboards
These keyboards are not quite good enough for the spots above or just don’t have standout features. They’re still worth a look.
Razer BlackWidow V4 Pro 75% for $300: Razer’s newest and highest-end keyboard does almost everything right but it’s just way too expensive (7/10, WIRED Review). The Pro keeps the same strong tactile switches and gasket mounting system of the original BlackWidow V4 75% and adds wireless connectivity, a new dial on the side, and a customizable OLED screen right next to it. These upgrades don’t justify the $110 price bump, but they’re still incredibly well-executed and come together to make an impressive gaming keyboard if you can find it on sale.
Cherry XTRFY MX 3.1 for $119: Cherry’s latest entry into the gaming space is a full-size, RGB-heavy keyboard that comes stock with its new MX2A switches and a “noise-dampening structure” meant to reduce typing noise. This keyboard is a solid option with a clacky sound profile, stylish RGB, and a robust metal chassis. While it’s a bit rough around the edges compared to some of the other keyboards on this list, it has a sturdy no-frills construction, and Cherry’s switches have repeatedly proven themselves to be long-lasting and reliable.
Wooting 60HE+ for $175: Between an archaic mounting method and long wait times for delivery, I just can’t recommend the 60HE over Keychron’s Q1 HE. While I still think it’s a fantastic Hall effect keyboard, it just doesn’t have the same polish and refinement as Keychron’s offering. The 60HE still uses a tray-mount system that, while modular, doesn’t sound or feel great to type on. Along with that, the plastic case is disappointing at the price; it was once an acceptable trade-off for customizable Hall effect switches, but Keychron offers a full-metal, gasket-mounted keyboard for around $50 more, and I think the improvements are worth the money unless you prefer a 60% layout or want the ability to use the 60HE’s wide range of aftermarket cases.
Cherry KC 200 MX for $90: The KC 200 MX is an incredibly simple and barebones keyboard that doesn’t add anything new, or remove anything necessary. It’s a full-size mechanical keyboard with Cherry MX2A switches, a metal plate, and hardly anything else. It’s not customizable, it’s not programmable, but I can say for sure that it will be durable, reliable, and at least somewhat enjoyable to type on for years to come.
Happy Hacking Keyboard Professional Hybrid Type-S for $360: While the new Studio has replaced this model as my pick for programmers, this older version is still great if you want something simpler, or with a unique typing feel. The layout is still great and the Topre switches—a kinda-membrane, kinda-mechanical switch with a deep typing sound and distinct, rounded tactility—are a joy to type on. Plus, these keyboards have an extensive community with aftermarket parts and guides on how to modify them. The Pro Hybrid Type-S model specifically has extras like Bluetooth connectivity and silencing rings. It’s also reprogrammable using HHKB’s proprietary app, although there’s not much reason to modify the existing layout unless you want a specific macro or change to the function layer. It’s incredibly easy to find on the used market for around half the price, making it a much more reasonable alternative to the Studio.
Melgeek Made68 for $149: With a more minimal approach to its design and a stylish white-and-purple color scheme, the Made68 has a great desk presence that stands out from the crowd. Plus, in-depth customization of Melgeek’s Gateron-supplied Hall Effect switches means that incredibly granular adjustments can be made to this keyboard’s typing experience, even down to the actuation distance of individual keys. The external appearance can also be customized, with removable side panels and a swappable light diffuser on the back. The diffusers are currently available in black, green, and red with each including new silver side panels. However, you will need a screwdriver set to remove any of these panels, since an Allen wrench isn’t included with the keyboard. Overall, the Made68 sounds and feels good to type on. The tray-mount isn’t ideal for typing feel, but the typical issues with typing consistency aren’t as prominent here as other similar keyboards. At this price, a slightly flawed typing experience is a worthwhile tradeoff for customizable Hall Effect switches and a satisfying typing sound.
Switch Recommendations
Photograph: Henri Robbins
Switches are a huge part of a mechanical keyboard—if you already have a board, try swapping the switches if you want a fresh experience. I’m working on a guide to my favorite switches, but below are my recommendations if you want a silent, tactile, or linear switch.
Silent Switches
One of the most frequent things friends and family ask me about is silent switches. For coworkers, roommates, family members, or partners, the constant clicking and clacking of a mechanical keyboard can be grating. There are silent linear and silent tactile switches, but I find that silent linears are more acceptable in terms of typing feel and actual silence. However, even the best silent linear switches will feel a bit off compared to a non-silent switch.
The best silent switch available today is the Haimu Heartbeat ($11 for 36 switches). Once lubed, this switch is almost perfectly silent and, more importantly, manages to do it with hardly any of the “mushy” or “squishy” feeling most silenced switches have. Instead, it has a clean and slightly soft bottom-out that’s only betrayed by the lack of audible response to accompany it. In second place sits the slightly more silent Gazzew Bobagum. This switch is almost dead-silent, and while it does have the usual “mushy” bottom-out feeling of silicone, it isn’t that bad when the rest of the switch is as smooth as it is. If you’re a fairly light typist who doesn’t bottom-out keypresses, or you don’t mind a slightly mushier bottom-out, these are also great.
Linear Switches
Linear switches are often the default choice for mechanical switches. My two favorites are from Gateron: Oil King switches ($49 for 70) and Cream Soda switches ($53 for 70). Oil Kings are one of the best linear switches available today. Out of the box, they’re smooth, sound great, and require zero modification. You don’t need to lube them, film them, swap the springs, or anything else. Just put them into a keyboard, and you’re golden. The Cream Soda switches, on the other hand, are a great mix of different switch technologies. Utilizing a long-pole stem for a more distinct bottom-out sound, proprietary Ink plastic for a smooth and deep sound, and factory lube that’s on par with hand-lubing, they feel incredibly smooth and sound great right out of the box, although they can still benefit from adding film.
Tactile Switches
I find that a lot of people look for the wrong things when shopping for tactile switches. While ultra-tactile switches with distinct bumps are popular online, I find these kinds of switches often only feel good on their own and can be difficult to adjust to for the average person. Instead, I always advocate for something in the middle: a crisp, responsive bump that isn’t so drastic that it distracts from typing or feels uncomfortable after prolonged periods.
The classics always hold up: Durock T1 ($45 for 110) switches are a great starting point, and I’ve always had a soft spot for Novelkeys’ Cream Tactile ($12 for 10) switches, even if you need to break them in quite a bit compared to other switches. Drop’s Holy Pandas ($42 for 35) mostly deserve their reputation—they’re a solid, heavy tactile that feels great to type on, and I’ll always love the Boba U4T for their fantastic sound profile and great tactile bump too.
Avoid These Keyboards
Not every keyboard will be a winner. Here are a few I don’t think are worth the price.
Satechi SM1 for $99: I don’t feel compelled or inspired by this keyboard by any means, and when you’re spending $100 or more on a keyboard, it should be inspiring, or at the very least enjoyable to use. The SM1’s typing experience is underwhelming even by the standards of a low-profile keyboard. It sounds hollow to type on, has a shallow and scratchy keypress, and the build quality doesn’t feel solid at all. Despite being mechanical, I would compare the user experience to a laptop’s built-in keyboard in terms of construction and typing satisfaction. Combining this with the lack of any customization software (meaning a completely fixed layout) and the use of proprietary tactile switches with no hot-swap capability, the Satechi SM1 is an underwhelming keyboard all around, especially when compared to standard-height mechanical keyboards in the same price range.
HiGround Opal Base 65 for $120: In my testing (5/10, WIRED Review), I found the Opal Base 65 fell behind the competition in almost every way. With a tray-mount assembly, clunky software, and a single-piece plastic case, I can’t find any reason to pick this keyboard over anything else.
KSI Wombat Willow for $145: I wanted to like this keyboard, as it has everything I should like: a unique layout, a metal case, PBT keycaps, and Gateron switches. But it just doesn’t work that well. The typing sounds hollow and rattly, the typing angles are either entirely flat or almost flat, and for some reason, every time I enable Caps Lock, it automatically types “20 02 00” (and after performing a factory reset, it types “01 06 07” instead). I couldn’t find any way to fix this using KSI’s WB Pouch software. However, it does do some clever things: The number pad is placed so that the main keyboard’s Enter key can be pressed with your thumb during use, and the two rows of Function keys consolidate a lot of keys vertically to save on horizontal space. I wish the assembly and polish matched up to this keyboard’s great vision because the idea itself is fantastic.
